It was a two days trip to get the feel of rural Bengal once again. The first day was about walking through the farms of Rahimpur village and witnessing potato harvesting. Also talking to villagers, visiting few homes to witness tant saree weaving, taking a carefree walk around the village, a brilliant sunset on Damodar river followed by a wonderful experience of howling foxes and Indian Nightjar bird together late in the night. All the while enjoying the ambiance of this nature rich farmhouse where I had put up. The next morning we set out on a toto for our Antpur & Rajbalhat day out to witness two historical towns and some exciting landmarks.
Antpur
Antpur town of Hooghly district, pronounced Aatpur in Bengali, is famous for more than one reason. The first being the large number of terracotta temples that you would see scattered all around. These date back to 17th and 18th centuries and each temple is a masterpiece in itself. Decorated with marvelous terracotta carvings and plaques they give you an insight into the architecture, history, religious beliefs and crafts of those days.
Radha Govinda Temple
The most famous of them is the Radha Govinda Temple built in 1786 A.D by Krishnaram Mitra, the local Jamindar and Dewan of Bardhaman Raja Kirtichand. The walls on three sides and the rooftop of the temple is decorated with beautiful terracotta plaques. We couln’t enter as the temple was closed for public when we reached.
Antpur Ramakrishna Mission
As we take a short walk from the temple complex past the ponds and village homes we come across this small temple. A prayer home of Ramakrishna Mission and a peaceful place to sit down and pray a while.
Antpur is the birth place of Swami Premananda, a direct disciple of Ramakrishna Paramahamsa and the properties all around starting with this temple belongs to the Ramakrishna Mission trust. Come let’s feel the place.
Ramakrishna Math
Ramakrishna Math is the ancestral home of Swami Premananda Maharaj which is now called ‘Dhuni Mandap’. It was here that Swami Vivekananda along with eight other brother disciples renounced the worldly pleasures. Come with us for a tour of the complex.
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The Journey from Antpur to Rajbalhat
It is always such a pleasure on a road trip. This time through the village green, the crops, the vegetable farms, the tiny roadside shops, the local temples and people busy with their village life. Experience this short and sweet journey with us.
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Rajbalhat
Rajbalhat was the capital of the Bhurshut kingdom which extended to present day Hooghly & Howrah districts of Bengal. It has two famous Terraccota temples, Radha Govinda temple constructed in 1733 and Sridhar Damodar temple constructed in 1724. The town is said to have got its name from Devi Rajballavi, a form of Goddess Kali. The idol worshiped in this temple has a white face instead of a normal black color of Kali idols.
Rajballavi Temple
Rajbalhat Rath
Rajbalhat is also known for its Rathyatra when the entire town comes alive for these seven days. It is one of the most decorated Raths as well. Have a closer look at the four sides.
A spin around town
Spending time at Das family home
It was such a wonderful experience spending an hour with the family. A weaver by profession Mr. Das showed me around the weaving room, the raw materials and other important ingredients required in the weaving process. Come experience with us.
The only sad part was that the apprehensions expressed by the weavers in Rahimpur the previous day were coming true. The handloom tant saree weaving industry in Bengal is slowly but surely on the way to extinction. To prove the fact, Abhishek the son of the family has moved into greener pastures leaving the family tradition. He now works for a NGO providing health services in and around Rajbalhat.
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My only rural trip to West Bengal was to Jalpaiguri which was primarily the tea gardens. I would love to visit the Ramakrishna Math and see the temples.. I would also like to enjoy a green stay, slow pace and just chill out there.
Yeah Ambica a great place to relax and explore at a leisurely pace.
I have never seen a terracotta temple before, so I’d love to visit Antpur for that. The carvings look so delicate, they must have taken so much patience and skill to make as terracotta is not the easiest material to work with. Rajbalhat looks like a great place to explore as well, for the two terracotta temples and the festival. It’s so great that you got to visit a local and see their weaving premises. Shame that this is an almost extinct craft in Bengal.
Truly Joanna. So happy to see you appreciate the crafts around these magical destinations in India. And you’ll find that in every state every corner of this beautiful nation called India.
The temple in Antpur is just so eye-catching. Those intricate carvings just have to be admired . I am also amazed by the shapes of these temples they are so diverse and beautiful in their own way. Thanks for the introduction to this part of India.
Thanks Adele. Yes the temples are real gems and they are all around the town.
I’ve never heard of both places, but they look like interesting places to visit for a day trip. The terracotta temples are so striking and seem to be unique in this region too. It’s nice that you spent time at your family’s home, it’s always nice to have a day trip and see people you love too!
The temples of Antpur look like a movie setting to me. Maybe it is because there are not many people in them. Anyway – I love the idea of a spiritual place with walls covered with terracotta tiles. Very unusual and very beautiful. I would love to visit them one day.
Great to hear that Natascha. Do come over to India and Bengal.
Oh wow, the terracotta temples are so amazing! I have seen a church in Finland that also had some terracotta figurines all over to its walls, and looked similar to these. I wonder if they were somehow similarly made. I would love to visit some terracotta temples in India someday.
You are welcome to India Paula.
West Bengal is one of the many important places of India with impeccable history, culture and tradition of the people living there. Having a special connection with India, I can’t tell you how much I admire seeing the inert beauties of India. I just love the intricate teracotta Temples in Antpur. The temples in Bengal remind me a lot about my native place as we too have similar carvings and designs on the temple. It’s very sad to know the weavers in Bengal is in the brink of extinction. I remember when I was back in Kanchipuram, the weaving culture among the people was under-appreciated there as well. I would love to know more about this process if I ever get a chance!
So nice to know about your India connection and love for our country Maria. Yes it is so disheartening to see the plight of the weaving community and the sadness in their eyes.
I love the detailing of the Terracotta temples. I didnd’t realise there were so many I had only ever seen a picture of one and presumed that was it. I now know why people talk about them so much. Ramakrishna Math is always a place that fascinates me. I meet a few Brahmacarya when in southern india and they shared their path to giving up up worldly pleasures to achieve samadhi, I know their paths were different but the level of devotion they and Swami has fascinates me.
Thanks Nicole. These Terracotta temples are truly wonderful creations.
Your visit to Antpur and Rajbalhat in West Bengal was a refreshing one. A farm stay amid peaceful greenery, watching potato harvesting, making of tant sarees, relaxing at sunset at Damodar river and listening to howling foxes and Nightjar at night sounds really adventurous.
The terracotta temples in Antpur and their intricate carvings are truly beautiful reflecting the architectural heritage of the past.
It’s great that you could visit the Ramakrishna mission and math and soak in the spiritual vibes and take tour of the place. The Rajballavi temple at Rajbalhat is amazing with its white idol of goddess Kali and the colorful rath on display is mind-blowing.
Thanks Puloma. So glad you enjoyed the trip.
How fascinating. Would love to do a trip like this’ll. Also sad to hear about the tant saree weavers, considering sarees sell for so much money!
Thanks so much.