We were in Madrid and staying at the most happening street there. In Gran Via right in the center of town. While there it seemed experiencing a bullfight in Madrid would be one of most authentic Spanish experiences we could have. Because it’s a spectacle that has been linked to Spain for hundreds of years. So we headed to the historical venue of Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas on our third day in Madrid.
Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas
After finishing our quick lunch at McDonald’s in Gran Via, we took the Metro Line 5 from there just next to our accommodation. Moreover Gran Via to Ventas station is just 6 stops and it took us around 15 minutes to reach. And then after a one minute walk we were outside Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas, Calle de Alcalá, 237.
Feeling the place
We reached quite early. In fact much earlier than the scheduled time because we wanted to just roam around a bit, book our tickets, buy a few mementos and then do what I truly love to do. Sit around and observe people. The tourists and the locals. Come get a feel with us before we walk into the arena.
A bit of history
Bullfighting traces its roots to prehistoric bull worship and sacrifice in Mesopotamia and the Mediterranean region. Bullfighting in Spain though traces its origins to 711 A.D. Initially bullfighting was done on horseback and was reserved for Spanish aristocracy, but King Felipe V ended this trend because he believed it was in poor taste for nobles to practice such a bloody sport. Commoners continued to develop bullfighting on foot with smaller weapons.
Las Ventas
Las Ventas construction began in 1922, was completed in 1931 and opened in the same year. Constructed in a Neo-Mudéjar style with hand-painted tiles, it houses an important bullfighting museum which illustrates the history of Las Ventas.
It also has a chapel devoted to the Virgen de Guadalupe and to the Virgen de la Paloma, patrons of Mexico and Madrid, respectively. The bullring also boasts of an infirmary equipped with the latest technology and two complete operating theaters. It also has three cultural halls: Antonio Bienvenida Hall, Antoñete Hall and the Cossío Hall, and is also home to a small library.
The bullring has a capacity for 23,798 spectators and a ring with a diameter of 60 metres, which makes it the largest in Spain and the third largest in the world, behind Mexico and Venezuela.
The perfect weather for a lovely evening
Our 3 days in Madrid had been just awesome. Also because the weather had not played spoilsport and it had been sunny and cool all through. And so had it been today right from morning. As a result we were in high spirits as we observed more and more people heading towards the historical venue. And it was a pleasure clicking with the blue sky in the background.
The Gates were now open
As usual we were one of the first to walk in having reached early. We therefore could move to our seats in a relaxed manner after having a beer. Moreover we had the opportunity to soak in the atmosphere right from the beginning, which we did, as we felt the crowd building up around us at this very impressive and gigantic venue.
As the spectators were entering the arena and locating their seats, a band was playing a spirited bullring march, ‘paso doble’ as they call it. And probably our happiness showed as we clicked a few, with both of us taking a turn at trying our hand.
A bit about the Game
There are six rounds in a bullfight and each round is of twenty minutes. Therefore within this time the matador has to kill the bull. Also there are six separate and required phases to a bullfight: the opening capework, the lancing by the picadors (person on horseback who goads the bull with a lance), the flashy and graceful passes with the large cape, the placing of the banderillas (a decorated dart), the dangerous passes with the muleta (a red cloth fixed to a stick) and finally the kill.
If the performance is very good, the matador receives, as a token of popular esteem, one ear of the bull. If it is superb, the bullfighter receives two ears. But if the performance is spectacular, the bullfighter receives both ears and the tail.
If the bull had battled bravely before his death, the crowd may petition the president (by waving white handkerchiefs) for the bull to be given a vuelta (lap) around the ring. The bull is then dragged once around the ring by a team of horses to the satisfaction of the bull’s breeder, who views this as a great honor. All this may not sound too good, but that’s the way it is.
The Arena was filling up
The spectacle started soon
The spectacle began with a trumpeter blowing a fanfare and the opening of a large gate at one end of the arena. Two mounted bailiffs in 16th-century costume and plumed hats rode across the ring to the box of the President, normally a local dignitary and doffed their hats. The official returned the gesture and granted permission by waving a white handkerchief, a signal acknowledged by a trumpet call.
Moreover this ritual is followed by a ceremonial walk with assistants and officials going around the arena.
Soon the atmosphere turned electric. And then the actual spectacle started with the bull entering the ring and the crowd going into ruptures. The first fight was on.
The Fight
At first the assistants return to the bullring carrying short barbed staffs banderillas. And attempt to have the bull charge them. And at the last minute, going over the horns, plant the barbs into the bulls shoulders. A short melody signifies the end of this process.
Now it is the turn of the matador which translated literally means “killer”. Using his cape the matador will have the bull charge him. He maintains a rigid pose and guides the bull around his body. As the bull tires, both through blood loss and exertion, the band plays up again and the matador goes to his assistant for the killing sword. On a particular charge this will be driven over the horns, through the shoulder blades and directly into the animals aorta killing it dead. If this however doesn’t happen, it may be necessary for the assistants to finish the stricken bull with a sharp needle like dagger between the eyes.
We walked out after four rounds with sadness, with no intention to witness the next two rounds. Likewise if you do not wish to ever attend a bullfight after experiencing it here, you still have an opportunity. In other words, you can still have a great experience at this majestic bullfight venue. Because there is a lot really that one can experience here at Las Ventas, apart from the bullfight. Therefore click on ‘Las Ventas Tour‘ to know more about a guided tour and to experience history.
Bullfight at Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas, Madrid. What started with a lots of jubilation ended with a heavy heart for us being an animal lover. Because it was certainly an unequal fight and not a fair competition between skill and force, as the advertisements normally claim.
Yeah, no. I think this is unnecessary, archaic, and barbaric. I’m actually glad to hear that you walked out after one round. Such a sad way to find entertainment, and I find no reason for it.
Yes Jennifer it’s barbaric and no one should ever make a mistake that we did. And you know there are hardly any Spanish who attend now. It’s mainly the tourists who really don’t know what it is like till they walk in and start witnessing.
I too am also pleased to hear you walked out. Its such a sad thing that this still happens but looking at your photos it’s clearly still very popular. I really hope they put an end to it someday. On a positive note, I’m glad to see there are other things you can do around the beautiful arena that don’t involve bulls.
Yes Kerry it’s barbaric. And Spanish who attend are in very few numbers I am told. It’s mostly the tourists.
These are some really fascinating scenes. Witnessing bullfighting must be an experience of a lifetime. Your pictures are so vivid and lively.
Yes Saurabh the atmosphere was electric but the game is actually barbaric. The experience therefore was a mixed one.
There are many things on my Spain bucket list, but I don’t think this will ever be one of them. I understand it is part of their tradition, just like sacrificing animals yearly to appease god is part of my own culture. I’m not a vegetarian, which may make this sound a little hypocritical, but I feel like we are condoning so many barbaric things for the sake of tradition.
It’s no longer tradition in my opinion as hardly any Spanish attend the bullfights now. It’s mostly the tourists.
It was interesting to read this account of seeing a bull fight in Madrid. We have been to Spain several times and have not done a bull fight. And really were not sure if this was something we even wanted to do. The arena experience I am sure was interesting. But the actual bull fighting part I could live without. I too would feel sad about this unequal fight.
Yes Linda not really worth seeing the flight except that the atmosphere was just electric. A guided tour to the arena would definitely be a pleasure including spending time at the museum.
I visited Madrid before but didn’t go for the bullfight. I’m glad that you walked out after four rounds. Although the bull fight has a long history, I think it’s barbaric and not a good way to treat animals.
Yes completely agree Ha with you.
Wow , watching a bull fight is high on my list. But, having said that, I find it quite dangerous too. Often it goes out of control and go ugly. But the way it is Romanized in films makes me at least for for once. Hopefully soon. Loved reading about your experience.
You’ve had a great adventure, but bullfighting is not for me. I was once at a bullfight in Seville. The stadium was full of people. Several famous bullfighters fought. The stadium screamed for joy, and I cried, unable to watch the suffering of the animals. I left after a few fights. I couldn’t bear to see the animals suffer. I understand this tradition. I know how important it is in the culture of Spain. But personally, I cannot accept bull-killing. But it is definitely worth going on a bullfight to see for yourself what this looks like, if you have strong nerves. Madrid is definitely a great place to watch bullfighting. It is also worth seeing Las Venta’s arena.
I am not really a fan of bullfights as I feel it’s so dangerous and just like you, I would also have a heavy heart watching something like this. I would walk out immediately too.