Yesterday night he came in my dreams. It was the same house where I had grown up during my childhood days. In the railway colony quarters in Gaya. I called out in happiness, Baba. He rushed towards me, hugged me and kissed me many times. Then he went out to the verandah outside and sat down. I went to him and asked. How did you come back Baba after leaving us almost two and a half decades back? He smiled and said. You all are going through a difficult time and I thought if I could be of any help.

I woke up suddenly and realized it was a dream. Felt very sad and stood by the window for some time. Staring at the dark sky and wiping out the droplets rolling down. Before going back to sleep again, I wished the dream would continue and he could be with me for some more time.

My heart goes out to the parents who could have stayed longer. Lived many more years. And also to the children who could not be by their side in their last moments and perhaps even in their last journey. Staying in distant lands or different cities without the means to be present with their loved parents. This pandemic has changed everything and taken away our peace of mind and our freedom.

Could the magnitude of this tragedy have been minimized? I believe yes. Who is responsible? Well we all have our own answers. But it’s time for the world leaders to unite, take the right steps and preempt anything like this from happening again. So that our children and future generations are not left helpless again.

And for us common citizens it’s time to accept this whole new world of improved hand hygiene, masks and social distancing for a long time to come.

It’s time to seek happiness again. And what could be better than travel. Are you game? Then come along.

After an eventful and nostalgic first day in Gaya reliving my childhood days by visiting what used to be my home, the neighborhood, my school and Bodh Gaya – The Land of Buddha , we were back to our hotel and got down to planning for the next two days.

Got up early the next morning, very early and the first thing I did was to go down to have some roadside tea and look for Gopal, our newspaper vendor for years when we were kids. It was here, almost next to our hotel that he had hugged me and given me the news of my passing of my higher secondary exams with good marks. Had heard that he still was around. But everything that we desire is not always available. And so was he. Came to know from the person now occupying his space that he was well. His two sons, one is a computer scientist who lives in Calcutta and the other a chartered accountant who lives in Delhi. Felt happy for him and his face, lips all red with pan (betel leaves) and that amazing smile flashed across my mind.

The plan for the day was already chalked out. And the first thing in our itinerary was a visit to Vishnupad Temple to offer our prayers and offerings.

Vishnupada Mandir is an ancient temple in Gaya. It is a Hindu temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu. This temple is located along the Falgu River, marked by a footprint of Lord Vishnu known as Dharmasila, incised into a block of basalt. The construction date of temple is unknown and it is believed that Rama along with Sita had visited this place. The present day structure was rebuilt by Devi Ahilya Bai Holkar, the ruler of Indore in 1787.

The story goes that once a demon known as Gayasura, did a heavy penance and sought a boon that whoever saw him should attain salvation. Salvation is achieved through being righteous in one’s lifetime but people started obtaining it easily. To prevent immoral people from attaining salvation Lord Vishnu asked Gayasura to go beneath the earth and did so by placing his right foot on asura’s head. After pushing Gayasura below the surface of earth, Lord Vishnu’s foot print remained on the surface that we see even today. The footprint consists of nine different symbols including Shankam, Chakram and Gadham. These are believed to be weapons of the Lord. Gayasura when pushed into earth pleaded for food. Lord Vishnu gave him a boon that every day, someone will offer him food. Whoever does so, their souls will reach heaven. The day Gayasura doesn’t get food, it is believed that he will come out. Every day someone or the other from different parts of India pray for welfare of their departed and offer food, feeding Gayasura.

Inside the Vishnupad Mandir, the 40 cm long footprint of Lord Vishnu is imprinted in solid rock and surrounded by a silver plated basin. The height of this temple is 30 meters and it a has 8 rows of beautifully carved pillars which support the pavilion. The temple is built of large gray granite blocks jointed with iron clamps. Its pyramidal tower rises up a 100 feet. On top of the temple is a gold flag weighing approximately 51 kg. Within the temple stands the immortal banyan tree Akshayabat where the final rituals for the dead takes place.

I am not too much of a religious person and respect all religions equally. But when you experience and discover your own, it always has a very special meaning. So we were off to discover some more of these pleasures. We are now heading towards Pretshila Hills.

Pretshila Hill or Hill of Ghost is of prime importance. The place is known for its Yama Temple (God of Death), which is built on top of the hill. The site is highly pious among Hindus where several devotees pay homage/Pinda Daan to their ancestors in order to free their soul and give them final relaxation. Our last destination of the day is the ancient Dungeshwari Cave Temples, also known as Mahakala Caves.

Gautama Buddha is believed to have piously meditated at this place for six years before he went to Bodhgaya for the final realization. Two small shrines are built to commemorate this phase of Buddha. A golden emaciated Buddha sculpture is enshrined in one of the cave temples and a large (about 6’ tall) Buddha’s statue in the other. A Hindu goddess deity Dungeshwari is also placed inside the cave temple.

The day was hectic but it was enjoyable and relaxing too. After all, that is what a holiday is all about. Back to our hotel we decided to sleep early because we had to get up early the next day.

A trip to Gaya is not complete till you have visited the next few places that I am going to take you to. We decided to do it all in one day knowing well that it would be very hectic. But you should ideally do it in two days which would give you some time to relax too. We started from Gaya at 5 AM and our first destination, Rajgir.

Rajgir, meaning the abode of Kings has been mentioned first in the ancient Hindu epic Mahabharata as the capital of Magadh, ruled by the mighty King Jarasandha. Estimated be around 3,000 years old, Rajgir was known by various names such as Vasumati, Barhdrathpura, Girivraja, Kusagrapura, and Rajgriha. The great Hindu epic Ramayana says that the mythical king Vasu, a son of Lord Brahma, founded this town and named it Vasumati. The last name Rajgriha is the one from which the present name Rajgir has been derived.

It was also the center of great religious and intellectual activity. The Buddha made several visits to this town and stayed here for a considerable time to propagate his doctrine. Jain texts on the other hand say that their last apostle Mahavira passed 14 rainy seasons in Rajgir and Nalanda. It was also the birthplace of Muni Suvrata, a predecessor of Lord Mahavira and the center of the Ajivika sect.

Rajgir though small area wise is an important pilgrimage center for three of the great religions of India – Hinduism, Buddhism, and Jainism. There are pilgrimage sites of each of these religions in the town. On the Vaibhava hill are the Saptkarni caves where the first Buddhist Council was held. The Saptkarni cave is also the source of the Rajgir hot Sulphur springs that have curative properties and are scared to the Hindus. The hottest of the springs is the Brahmakund with a temperature of 45°C.

The Buddha Sangh of Japan has constructed a massive modern Stupa, the Shanti (peace) Stupa at the top of the hill. One can climb up to the top along a bridle path but the aerial chairlift is far more exciting. Many fairs and festivals take place in Rajgir. The Rajgir Mahotsav is held every year in October. Classical dance, folk dance, music, and art performances are organized during this festival.

Next up is Nalanda which is one of the greatest centers of learning in the ancient times and around 12 kms from Rajgir. Founded in the fifth century AD, today this ancient university lies in ruins. The place not only has the remains of the great university but also many monasteries, temples, and viharas built by different kings.

Though the Buddha visited Nalanda several times during his lifetime, this famous center of Buddhist learning shot to fame much later, during 5th-12th centuries AD. In this first residential international university of the world, 2,000 teachers and 10,000 students from all over the Buddhist world lived and studied. And now we move on towards our last destination for the day. Pawapuri.

Pawapuri or Pawa is a holy site for Jains in Nalanda district and 26 kms from Nalanda town. During the reign of Ajatshatru, Hastipal was the King of Pawapuri. When Lord Mahavira came to Pawapuri he stayed in King Hastipal’s “Rajikshala” or palace. Around 5th century BC, Mahavira, the last of the twenty four Tirthankara attained Nirvana or moksha (liberation). Jains celebrate Diwali to commemorate this event. He was cremated at Pawapuri, also known as Apapuri (the sinless town). There was a great rush to collect his ashes, with the result that so much soil was removed from the place of his cremation that a pond was created.

Now, an exquisite marble temple in the middle of a lotus pond, the Jal Mandir, stands magnificently on a rectangular island amidst the holy pond, connected to the mainland by a sandstone causeway.

A Jain temple called ‘Samosaran’ is located here in Pawapuri. This temple marks the site where Lord Mahavira gave his last sermon. The other beautiful Jain temple also here is known as ‘Gaon Mandir’.

As we proceeded towards our hired taxi and started our journey back towards Gaya, it felt so nostalgic. The last time I had ventured to these three places was when I was a kid and it brought back my memories of that trip and of all my friends who had accompanied me during that group tour. But today too, I was happy. Because I had a very special person by my side. My friend and partner for life, my wife.

Gaya. The land of Vishnu, the land of Buddha, the land of Mahavira. The land which was an integral part of Magadha empire.

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