The train it seemed was running on time. To be doubly sure, I cross checked with the tea vendor and he confirmed it was. Happy hearing that, I immediately jumped down from my top berth and peeped out of the window. And there in front of me was the platform, the train zipping past. And finally it came to a halt.
A new morning, it was fresh as ever. A new day, a new city and a completely new feeling for me. And I told myself, must make the best of this journey. The journey to discover myself, my life. I took the first baby steps and moved out of the station. In search of my destination.
That was exactly thirty five years back. And I spent four years here, working and living the charm of this wonderful city. But today I was back again to rediscover this city, from a completely new perspective. From that of a traveler.
The first thing that caught my attention was the newly built Lal Bahadur Shastri Airport, approximately twenty six kilometers away from the heart of the city.
I had booked my cab in advance, the flight landed on time and we were soon off towards the heart of the city, Varanasi. Kashi, Benares, Banaras, Varanasi. The names are many, but the charm is the same.
“Benaras is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together” – Mark Twain
The Holy city of Varanasi has a written history of more than 3000 years. Its the abode of Lord Shiva and Maa Parvati (Hindu God and Goddess). The land of second oldest continuous civilization. The land of Mysticism and Spiritualism. The land of Sanskrit and Culture. The land of great learners, teachers, authors, poets, philosophers & musicians. The land where Indian Medical science, Ayurveda and Yoga originated. The land of Buddhism history and where Lord Buddha gave his first preaching. The city which Jainism revers to as the most holy.
The city of knowledge and religions, Benares truly is the Culture and spiritual Capital of India.
The three names Kashi, Varanasi and Benares actually denote three different era’s of the iconic history of this city. Kashi is the oldest name found in books and written documents which walk us through the ancient history of this city. The holy city on the banks of River Ganges. Derived from the word Kashya which means lights the city got its name – Kashi, The city of Lights!
Then, times changed. The city flourished. People prospered, trade grew and the city needed to expand with the growing needs of land, people, tourism and knowledge. People realized that they could not settle near to the holy Ganges anymore. It was more a royal land now and only kings could settle there in solitude. So the city expanded towards the tributaries of Ganges, River Assi and River Varuna and beyond. There the city got its second name, Varanasi named after the lands between Varuna and Assi Rivers. The lands here were fertile, the floods were rare and hence the people were happy.
Then came the Britishers. And with them came the name Benares. This name is said to have many origins. Some say that the word Benares is based on the name of one of the kings of city, King Banara. Others say that its just a twisted version of Varanasi in Sanskrit.
We were now approaching our hotel. I had intentionally booked one near the happening city center, Godowlia. The hotel though was not too happening. But then I was here this time to explore. The luxurious hotels, most of which I have stayed in during my numerous business visits, are a little far away.
The thrills of Benares are best explored by foot. And to experience the real Benares, you should stay at a place from where you can walk out anytime till late in the night and head towards the Ghats. This city, by the way, never sleeps.
The city had changed. But nothing much had changed. Except that there were more people, more rickshaws, more autos, more carts, more street vendors and more cattle jostling for the same narrow roads and lanes. But what is striking is that all are at peace.
Benares my favourite city, will probably soon be yours too.
Quickly checked in, freshened up and headed off towards the Ghats. It is the only place in the world which has 84 ghats, making it the city with highest number of river banks in the world.
We will explore more of the ghats a little later and tomorrow morning again. For now let’s head off for some lunch. And I love the thali at this vegetarian paradise, Jaipuria Dharamshala, right on Godowlia. The food here is awesome Rajasthani food and there is always the risk of overeating. So watch out.
The place also has decent rooms available which you need to book much in advance as they are hot selling ones. Happily satisfied I walked back again towards the Ghats to explore some of them on foot and then on a boat ride.
As I got back to Dashashwamedh Ghat, it was approaching evening. And the evenings in Benares are spectacular. Come get a feel.
We are now back to Dashaswamedh Ghat to witness Ganga Aarti, the ritual of offering prayer to the Ganges river held daily at dusk and which lasts for about 45 minutes. This is a must watch event while you are visiting Varanasi.
Several priests perform this ritual by carrying a layered brass lamp and moving it up and down in a rhythmic tune of bhajans (devotional songs). An idol of Ganga Devi (Goddess), flowers, incense sticks, conch shell and other ritual paraphernalia are used while priests chant mantras. A small diya (earthen lamp) and flowers are floated down the river after the prayer ceremony is over.
Eager devotees throng the site from across the city to witness this awe-inspiring spectacle. Special Aartis are held on Tuesdays and on religious festivals. After witnessing the Aarti for close to twenty minutes, I took a boat ride to experience this spectacular view of the ghat from the other side.
As I headed back towards my hotel I was still feeling very full after my overindulging lunch. And so decided to avoid a sit down dinner and instead relax for a while in my room before coming back for these specialities of Varanasi.
As I headed back towards my room with a deep sense of satisfaction and for a little relaxation before retiring for the day, it was a call that I just could not resist. The call for a Lassi, while I am in Benares.
Benares is famous for it’s milk products and Lassi for sure is one on top of that list. There are quite a few renowned shops here but among them is this freaky one that stands out. Bana Lassi. Read more about this place in one of my earlier post Benares..lots to explore. The other must have sweet delights while you are here are of course Malai and Rabri. So I decided to carry back some Rabri to my room for having it a little later in the night while Malai was scheduled for the next evening.
And to finally round off the day and to help the entire digestion process, it’s time for another speciality of Benares. A Banarasi Meetha or Zarda Paan ( Betel leaf). For me though it will be a combination. The shopowner seemed quite amused hearing that.
As I relax in my hotel balcony reading a book, the main street outside looks still quite busy as we approach midnight. Will be back again soon to take you around and tell you much more about this fascinating city.
But before that, if you are a traveler coming from abroad it certainly would be a culture shock. But relax, this place is still a favorite with foreigners. Do check out how my friend Britt enjoyed her trip here, some very useful tips for you and her list of Best Places to visit in Varanasi.
Varanasi. The city of lights. And the city which never sleeps.
Varanasi – PIN it for later
I’ve never heard about Varanasi but would love to go after reading your post. It’s interesting to read about the history and the meaning of its names – Kashi, Varanasi and Benares. The architecture looks impressive, and the rituals are so colorful. Food is yummy too! I’d love to try Pineapple Lassi and sample Samosa Chat.
Reading about Benaras was like like taking baby steps in the memory lane – the photos made the replay in the mind with baby pauses – nostalgic! Being from Benaras it will be a pleasure to suggest a few more ‘secret’ hot-spots to see when you come again – the Kachauri Gali for mouth watering ‘hing’ spiced gutka-kachauri, samosas, with ‘adrak-tea’ jalebee with Dhabi, lung-lata with hot milk @ Pahwalwan’s (near Lanka junction) Maghai-paan (with or without Martha) 5 in a beera, Not to forget the silk jardozi hand woven cloths – the Banarasi sari, shawl, soles, etc, etc followed by hand knotted pollen carpets – Bhadhohi – silk yarn made from the best material, ….
Sarnath, has its own glory – Buddha preached his sermons here – Japan, Tibet, Korea, and many south East Asian countries have monasteries here worth a visit.
The city has a past a beautiful present and a future that we all will keep Alive!
So very happy to read this and thank you so much for your lovely inputs. My next post continuing from where I left off is coming in a couple of days where you will see that some of your suggestions are included. Thanks again. Look forward to your reading the next post. Would again love your feedback.
I´ve always wanted to visit India and in particularly Varanasi! This place must have some unique spiritual vibes! The rituals look so colorful!
This place looks so interesting and so full of culture I will love to go there and tried all those delicious dishes.
LOVE these pictures and the food looks amazing too. I can’t wait to start travelling again x
Varanasi is one of my favourite places. It is really great that your train reached on time. Mine never does. Also, while returning to Kolkata, the train arrives late always. But anyways, Varanasi is a gem of a place. The ghats, the alleys, food and drinks, everything makes it a wonderful place. I prefer to visit Varanasi during the winters, only for having fresh Malaiyo. 🙂
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How safe is Varanasi for solo female travellers? I wanted to make my way there from Delhi but I heard that it’s not very safe. Is it true that bag snatching/pick pocketing are common? Thanks in advance – will appreciate your help! Xx
Not really Trisha. Yes there are typically few who try to get close to foreigners by trying to convince them to take them as guides. You should ignore and avoid them. In crowded places like the ghats where Ganga Aarti takes place, you should be a little conscious and hang your bag in front. Then there is no problem. Also venturing our alone after 10 PM should be avoided as the streets get a little empty. Otherwise there is no scare as such. The hotels are very helpful in providing support for you to plan your day. Taking their help is a good idea.
i can’t wait to be able to travel more later this year. we had to cancel a few plans. hopefully we can pick them up later this year if not early next year.
I feel bummed that I haven’t been to Varanasi since long. It has changed so much over the years. But the Aarti that you mentioned is the same that I had witnessed when I was small and visited the Dashashwamedh Ghat. I am craving for the local food there, they look so tasty. OMG, that paan! Thanks for bringing my memories back.
My pleasure Shreya. Happy to give you some happiness.
theres only one Varanasi. It’s so unique and your story photos do it great justice!
Thank you Andy. So happy that you loved reading and you love Varanasi.