Chittaranjan Park (known as C.R. Park), is an affluent and a posh neighborhood in South Delhi and home to a large Bengali community. It was established in the early 1960s under the name EPDP Colony or East Pakistan Displaced Persons Colony, and later renamed after the patriot Chittaranjan Das in the 1980s. With its Kolkata like street food stalls, Bengali cuisine restaurants, fish markets, temples, cultural centers and add to that the maids, plumbers, electricians, shopkeepers speaking the Bangla language, when you are here it feels like truly being in Bengal, outside Bengal.
It was eleven years back. I had been elevated in my then organization to take up national responsibilities. And I had to move to Delhi. The company was sponsoring my hotel accommodation for two months and I had to move then to one of my own rented one. My instruction to the broker was to look for a nice apartment in C.R.Park. And only C.R.Park. He took me to a few properties till I found this one. M 40, C.R.Park. And I fell in love. A relationship that lasted all the seven beautiful years that I stayed in the city.

A quiet lane

A spacious apartment with a study that I started loving

Enough space to gel with colleagues and friends

And a balcony big enough for all the plants I wished to have
Apart from the apartment, there is much more to love about C.R. Park. It’s in the heart of South Delhi on Outer Ring Road with good access to the Delhi metro network. Malls, Multiplex, shopping centers, restaurants within close proximity and being close to Nehru Place, the business hub makes it a sought after destination. But for a Bengali like me it offered tons more. My food, my culture, my festivals and enough for my love of nature.

Lovely parks all around for the peace lover
My journey during my years in Delhi was a solo one as my better half had her own professional commitments as a teacher in my hometown Kolkata, where I was stationed till then. ‘Wow a bachelor again’ was what I remember jokingly telling her. She had smiled but there was sadness written all over it. And we then looked for reasons to be happy. I would anyway travel every month home for few days on work commitments and she would come over twice in the year for 3 weeks each. That was the time we traveled on holidays in addition to the two very special festivals we spent together.



C.R.Park is special for Bongs!

The Bengali specialty restaurants with free home delivery

Every Bengali’s favorite Kolkata style Biryani with egg and potatoe

The Kathi Rolls

Chicken Kasha

Fish Fries & Cutlets

The Bhetki Paturi & other fishy delights

Bengal Sweets & Delicacies




The Dhritikunj Dabba ( Tiffin Box) of homemade veg & non veg Bengali dishes for my Dinner and weekend meals, when I was not traveling or ordering from restaurants

And the varieties of fish we would freak out on when my wife was around

And the much talked about C.R.Park Durga Puja
During my early childhood and school days, till I moved out from my then small town hometown of Gaya for further studies, Durga Puja was more of a family and friends affair. Attending all rituals since morning in our Railway Institute for four and a half days and winding up late every night after enjoying musical shows, skits and movie screenings. With a break of few hours in the afternoon for lunch and a bit of siesta.
Somewhere as the years progressed and we moved to Kolkata, those pleasures went missing from our life with Durga Puja more of a competitive carnival, rather than a true community Puja in the locality where we stay. Till it was here in C.R.Park that I got back those beautiful moments in my life.

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I have always been very proud of my religion Hinduism for the immense wisdom it imparts on Dharma- our religious and moral duties, Karma- the actions that we take in our life & Moksha- freedom from selfish desires. And I love to connect with God, the supreme power in different forms. But I have never been a passionate temple goer except during our travels when we try and visit as many as we can for the rituals and the brilliance of Indian architecture. But this one changed everything. The awesome Kali Mandir two minutes away from our apartment block.

Kali Mandir
Chittaranjan Park Kali Mandir is a temple complex and Bengali community cultural center. Built on a small hill, it started as a Shiva temple in 1973 with two more shrines dedicated to goddess Kali and Radha Krishna added in 1984. Over the years it has remained an important center of convergence of local Bengali community. The temple hosted its first Durga Puja in 1977, a tradition that continues to date.




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Our Durga Puja days
Saptami and Navami was for a relaxed morning, a little laid back for a couple of hours with a few rounds of tea and coffee, a home made breakfast and then preparations to move out. On Ashtami day though we would get up early, bathe and move to our block Puja to offer Anjali (prayer & offerings) before returning home for breakfast.

All set for a spin of the pandals
C.R.Park has 21 blocks spread over an area of 1.75 sq km and there are almost the same number of Durga Pujas which are organized. That’s why it is so much fun walking all around and experiencing creativity in pandals, decoration and idols. What makes it even more special is the fact that each of them serve Bhog (cooked food offered to Goddess Durga and then distributed to devotees through community lunch) to all visitors on all three days of the Puja and have musical and other entertainment programs every night. Come let’s visit a few selected pandals.

The traditional idols

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The thematic ones

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A must visit to ‘Delhi Durga Bari’ in Central Delhi on Ashtami day

Come it’s time now for some Bhog

Evening Aarti

Checking out the food stalls

Before getting lost in the sound of music
Durga Puja Rituals

The arrival of Ma Durga on Shasthi evening followed by Arti

Morning Anjali on Saptami, Ashtami & Navami

Morning Puja preparations

Joba ( Hibiscus) 
Aparajita (Asian Pigeonwings)

Lotus

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Morning Puja

Prasad distribution to devotees after morning Puja

Afternoon Yagna in front of a sacred fire with chanting of Mantras

Bhog offering to Ma Durga

A typical vegetarian offering to the Goddess

Followed by distribution to devotees during lunch time

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Stage all set for the Sandhya Arti

The Dhaks (Drums)

And the Dhakis perform while the ‘Sandhya Arti’ is in progress every evening

Sindur Khela
(Married women play a ‘Vermilion Game’ with Ma Durga before smearing each other and bidding Good Bye to the Goddess on Dashami evening)

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Followed by sweet distribution to family, friends & neighbors celebrating ‘Vijayadashami’
Celebrations never seem to end in C.R.Park
Durga Puja is followed in quick succession by ‘Goddess Lakshmi’ Puja which is celebrated in every household. And then it is the turn of ‘Goddess Kali’ Puja after about three weeks. This day is also celebrated as Diwali throughout India. The place to be in. Kali Mandir.

Our homes all lit up

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And so is ‘Kali Bari’

Waiting to Welcome us

Kali Puja being performed

Bhog distribution after Kali Puja to devotees, late in the night and the next morning

Our own M Block Kali Puja
Is that all? No a last bit. Experience Poila Baisakh, the Bengali New Year in C.R.Park sometime. Must be honest, have experienced nothing like this ever before even in Kolkata or any other part of Bengal. It’s a Carnival following the real Bengali traditions. Men, Women & children alike. Celebrations across generations.

‘Poila Baisakh’
C.R.Park. A home I loved. And still admire. And miss the Pujas even now. Hope to be back next year to make up for the lost last 5 years. Do experience this Magical Bengal outside Bengal – Chittaranjan Park, New Delhi when you are there in Delhi next time. Either on vacation or on work.

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I was first sad to hear that there are no Durga Pujas being organized and celebrated in C.R.Park this time except in Kali Mandir which is restricted to members only. But then happy that wisdom, logical reasoning and better sense prevailed. Ma Durga will be back again next year, but life won’t. Maybe she is here this time to destroy the Corona demon.
Wishing all my friends and readers from around the world “Shubho Ashtami”. Ma Durga – The daughter who has come home would be back to Mountain Kailash in two days time. May she bless us all with health, wisdom and happiness.








Marvelous!
Thank you Ani.
Wow Subhashish! What a brilliant post.
Being born and brought up in C.R. Park, I have seen more that a generation of transition, the physical structure of the entire space, the culture, language and what not. But, I could not have portrayed C.R.Park in the manner that you have with less than 10 years of experience in this place.
I always believed that one explores a place more if one does not originate from that place and your post proves that belief.
I don’t have detailed idea about Kolkata, but I can confidently say that mini Kolkata that C.R.Park is known as clearly embodies the better part of bengali culture and all of us who stay in C.R.Park are proud of that.
Thanks, Rajib Biswas
Thank you so much Rajib. Your words touched my heart. Miss C.R.Park everyday.
I love the colors and culture of India. So vibrant and full of life! Thanks for sharing, I would especially love to visit the temple. I was able to visit Taj Mahal in 2010 and it was spectacular!
My pleasure Chrissi.Next time you must visit around this time of the year when there are lots of festivals & celebrations.
Chittaranjan Park looks like a very nice neighborhood indeed. It’s good that you found a big Bengali community] and could rent an apartment that made you feel more at home while you lived there. I’d love to visit Delhi and India by this token someday and learn more about your culture.
Come over Anda sometime. You’ll love every bit of the varied culture, traditions and festivities here in India.
I know very little about areas in India and found this Begali enclave fascinating. Chittaranjan Park looks like a great place for the community. I wish that I could get some of the foods that you showed but I don’t think the delivery would reach me in my country.
Come over sometime Rhonda. India is famous for its variety when it comes to food.
I love all of the culture there! The food alone looks amazing (yay for free delivery!). I’m a huge plant fan, so I’m a bit envious of their collection, lol. Such a beautiful neighborhood to experience India!
Come over sometime to experience India.
Wow, this is such a cool post! The food looks absolutely amazing, too. This makes me want to visit!
Chittaranjan Park seems like a great place to visit. The culture of India is very visible. The food looks absolutely delicious. The festivals look like so much fun as well. I haven’t made it to India yet, but hope to soon!
I love seeing, and learning about new places. It looks like a lovely place to visit. Before I read your post, I was not hungry, but after viewing all the food pictures, I sure am hungry. It all looked very delicious. Great pictures as well! Thank you for sharing.
My pleasure Stephanie. Happy you enjoyed.
What an amazing opportunity for you. So happy that you found the perfect apartment and the location you wanted and the Kathi Rolls look yummy. I would love to experience Durga Pujas, the pandals, lotus flowers, food and evening entertainment all look incredible.
You must visit India sometime Sherianne.