We hadn’t got over our 2 nights 3 days Sundarbans trip hangover as yet. But our friends visiting Bengal had another destination in their plans after a day exploring Calcutta. A two day trip to Shantiniketan which was again lots of fun for them. I gave it a slip as had visited just two months back but was excited for our next one. A day trip to Guptipara, a historical town of Bengal, India.
A bit about Guptipara
Guptipara is a town situated on the banks of River Hooghly approximately 90 kms from Kolkata. The history of the town dates back to the seventeenth century when it was a stronghold of Vaishnavite culture. Many terracotta temples were constructed here during this period and in the early eighteenth century . It was also here in ancient India that Sanskrit scholars lived and propagated the richness of Sanskrit language.
The other very interesting fact about Guptipara is that it is the home of Barowari Puja, meaning community puja. The story goes that some villagers wished to offer their Puja during the Durga Puja being held in the local Zamindar’s home. However they were stopped and not allowed. This was sometime in the late eighteenth century. That’s when some village friends got together, collected subscriptions from the community and started their own Barowari (meaning 12 friends) Puja almost after a month and named it Jagatdhatri (a form of Goddess Durga) Puja. Durga Puja too is now celebrated as Barowari or Sarbojonin.
When in Bengal, how can you not talk about sweets. And Guptipara features there as well. This ancient town is where Bengal’s first branded sweet “Gupo Sandesh” originated from. Therefore when you come visiting Guptipara, do not forget to try out this tasty delight and take back some home.
Guptipara is also famous for its 400 year old Sen zamindar family Durga Puja. Anyone can witness the puja provided they do not intrude into the privacy of the family members. It is a big attraction now for tourists every year.
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Sen zamindar family & Guptipara
In the sixteenth century, Ram Chandra Sen left his home in Khulna in present day Bangladesh aboard his fleet of fourteen vessels. He dropped anchor in Guptipara and decided to start living here. His successors subsequently started offering puja to Goddess Kali & Goddess Chandi in 1582. And instead of Chandi puja, Durga Puja started being celebrated by the family a few years later.
Sen Bari Durga Puja
Now a days white pumpkin, sugarcane & banana is offered instead of animals
The man behind our trip
Here is Chandan our dear friend from college & university days and the man behind a day of complete relaxation for the nine of us. Add to that sightseeing a bit of history and lots of fun and food. He is fondly called Prez by friends because he used to be the student union president during our time.
Prez not only planned for the ice box to be transported but literally all of us as well. And what a rollicking time we had. By the way the Sen Zamindar Bari is his maternal grandfather’s house and we had it all to ourselves for the day. Come experience history with us. But before that thanks to two more guys from all of us.
Going around Sen Bari
Aboshor (meaning free time), the Sen zamindar bari or home is a very well maintained property spread over approx 5 acres or so full of nature including mango, blackberry, jujube and mahogany trees besides others. It’s a complete peace haven. Come let’s go for a nature walk.
The flowers
Inside Sen Bari
The Sen family legacy
Some rooms
And the terraces
The courtyard
As we relax a while
Before diving on our breakfast
Followed by some Chai
And then this encounter
Before we moved out to explore landmarks
Guptipara Landmarks
Guptipara Vaishnava Temples
This single temple complex declared as a protected monument houses four different temples built over different period of time. All the temples are connected through narrow passageways. Let’s have a closer look at them.
The idols
Age old art
And historical terracotta carvings
With beautiful green all around
Masir Bari Temple
Guptipara is famous for its Rathyatra even more than Durga Puja and considered as only second behind Puri Rathyatra. The entire town comes into celebrations mode during these seven days. The idols of Jaganath, Balaram & Subhadra are carried in the Rath from Brindabanchandra Temple to Masir Bari Temple. The return journey called Ultorath takes place after seven days.
Kali Temple
A Sen family house
Sen Durga Bari
We are in Sen Durga Bari where the Durga Puja celebrations take place every year as we just witnessed. Currently there are four branches of the Sen family and therefore each gets to host once every four years.
The Hooghly Riverfront & Ferry ghat
Time to relax a bit
An old temple nearby
The ladies go shopping
As we chill by the pond
Goats my favorite since childhood
And one from college days
A Bengali feast for lunch
And memories to take back
If you loved this Guptipara journey with us, PIN it for later & forward to friends!
Subhashish these are dazzling pictures. What a great job. Well done. Guptipara looks like an inspired place to visit. We focused on southern India during our trip in 2013. What a glorious place.
Ryan
Thanks Ryan. So glad you loved Guptipara.
What a great introduction to this part of India and so lovely that you shared it with close friends. I was glad to read that animals are no longer sacrificed and fruit is a substitute in the ritual. The temples interested me as their design is unlike any I have witnessed in other countries and the heriitage home in that lush countryside looked lovely. Nice that the interior had lots of history including the family photographs.
Thanks Angie.
That Bengali feast looks absolutely delicious, I could almost smell it through the photo! Thakurdalan looks so striking with the yellows and reds, I’m glad it’s well taken care of. It’s a bit sad to see the Sen family home in such a state when it’s such a beautiful piece of architecture. Looks like a lovely town.
Yes Alice the unoccupied Sen home was so sad to look at. Such a marvellous property just decaying slowly.
One of the regions that I am yet to explore is West Bengal. And from the looks of it, there are quite a few hidden wonders. Enjoyed reading about the story behind the community worship. Also, I find that the temple architecture here is so differnt from the popular ones in rest of India. Thanks for adding one more wonder to my India list
My pleasure Ami. Glad you enjoyed discovering a bit of Bengal.
What an interesting place to visit. I like how the traditions here are still kept, but I’m happy that instead of the animal sacrifices these days that consists of fruits, vegetables and sugarcane. The temples are so beautiful, but so different from each other. It’s impressive how the old paintings and the terracotta statues have been preserved so well.
The role of the current generation of the Sen family has been instrumental in taking initiatives to preserve these historical temples by knocking on the doors of the right people.
Guptipara looks like a secret that foreigners have yet to discover being so very cultural and very authentic. When friends travel together , it is a beautiful memory to cherish, what more at such a beautiful place. Save some of the sweets your were talking about for me!
Come over Adele to India and Bengal and I would treat you to the best sweets the state is famous for. And Gupo Sandesh as well.
I’m delighted to know about this place because India is one of my favorite nations. The enticing features of Guptipara and the allure of its past intrigue me. I’m looking forward to visiting some of the many temples that are currently present. I also want to sample the Gupo Sandesh since it looks delicious!
You are welcome to India and Bengal Mnerizza.
Guptipara looks like an interesting town to visit. The history is fascinating as is the architecture and the temples here. It’s always interesting to read about lesser known places, I feel like I’m there without having to travel!
Thanks Lisa for enjoying the trip virtually with me.
It looks like you made the right decision to visit Guptipara and learn more about the history of this town. How great to do a nature walk around the 5 acres of the Sen zaminder Bari. I love the artistry in the Vaishnava Temples. Great to see how much was preserved and the detail in the terra cotta carvings. I can see why this trip created special memories.
Yes Linda Guptipara was such a great revelation for us as well. And we had really a great time at the Sen bari.
Guptipara seems to be a not so well-known town, although it is quite close to Kolkata. And it has to offer a lot to tourist – temples, cuture and nature. And some devlish looking sweets! Just my kind of place. I will save your post for a future visit.
Thanks Natascha. Do come over sometime to Kolkata.